Upper Quarry

1. Newton’s Apple E1 5b ★
A very pleasant easy-angled face, 2PRs.

2. Dirty Girty HVS 4c
Jam, jam, jam.

3. Acceleration due to Gravity HVS 5a
The curving thin crack is pleasant and better than its neighbour.

4. It’s a Sine (6a+)
An enjoyable face climb left of large corner. The hue slimy corner provides the line of Trident.

5. Scared Seal Banter (7a+) ★★★
A superb, overhanging wall climb. Fingery and sustained.

6. The Mastick Mick (6c+) ★
A good introduction to uphill country.

7. Cled’s Crack E1 5a
The wide traditional crack.

8. The Grouts of San Romano (6c) ★
A technical ‘match-edge’ start takes you to a steep finish. Friend 3 useful.

8. The Grouts of San Romano Right-hand (6c+) ★
Clip the bolt above the handrail on the previous route before breaking out to climb the wall on the right and stretching left to clip the bolts.

9. Brush Up HVS 5a
The right-hand corner of the bay, PR.

10. Step Up E1 5a
The obvious S-shaped crack, PR.

Listen to Uncle (6b)
Climb the wall left of The Godfather to a shared ring lower off.

11. The Godfather (6a+) ★
The left-hand arête of tower provides so airy climbing.

12. Up Yours! (6a) ★★
The right-hand arête proved superb, photogenic climbing.

13. Smoothie HVS 5c
The tricky bulge and short wall.

Further over to the right are a couple of pleasant routes: Windy Edge (E1 5a) is the obvious arête with a PR, Mortar Life (6a) is the bolt line to the right and O Solo Mio (HVS 5a) climbs a short wall on the opposite side of the gap. There a re a few other problems to sample in the area alongside these routes.